One thing that seems to be missing in many interiors I see is the small details, the small nuances that often go unnoticed, but can have a dramatic effect on the overall continuity of the interior design. Here's an example. On a pocket that is sewn into a door panel where the pocket is attached to the surface. Standard fare is to fold the edges and run a top-stitch or French seam along the sewn edges. The alternative is to run the pocket bottom below the carpet line and build a trim piece to cover the seams on the sides and attach the trims from behind so as not to have any exposed fasteners. Another example I use alot is the accent panels on new Cessna singles. The panel is an attractive accent, however, the installation of the panel using screws that are exposed takes away from the clean lines of the panel.

I find that many times in aviation design takes a back seat to simplicity. I see aircraft that cost in the hundreds of thousands of dollars yet the interiors look as if they were copied from a sub-compact economy car. Low quality materials, overuse of plastic, poorly fit trim panels (I see this even from what are considered the best aftermarket interior parts manufacturers.), lack of creativity and in some case a "cheapness" about the whole interior. Most aircraft cost as much, or many times more than, a luxury car or high end sports car, so shouldn't the interior rise to the same level? So many times the interior of aircraft is given the least amount of attention. The interior of the plane is where most of the time flying is spent. Not only should it be a pleasing and inviting space, but it must also provide the most comfort that can be afforded to the pilot and passengers. It is possible to build a suberbly comfortable, beautifully crafted interior while still meeting all FAA regulations and without adding a large amount of weight.

Here are some areas I see that are commonly mishandled.

1. General overall fit and finish. A new interior should be neatly and tightly installed. It should have uniformity throughout the entire interior. Painted and dyed parts should match exactly, not just be the closest color that is easy to find. Hardware should be new or, in the case of specialty parts and fasteners, be properly cleaned. Proper glue should be used that can withstand the high heat of an aircraft cabin and should be used in such quantities to insure that seams and joints do not come apart readily.

2. Colors should be current and shades of materials should be within the same color range. Seat covers should be completed entirely with the same materials. A leather seat with vinyl sides, even if it is a perfect match, is a clear sign of a low end interior. The same is true for the side panels.

3. Plating. If the decorative plating is in disrepair, it should be replated. At a minimum, plating should be restored to the factory type. However, there are many choices for re-plating from black chrome to brushed finishes to precious metal, there are many possibilities. One note in regards to plating. Be careful with gold. I have seen many instances where gold was the choice simply to have "24 karat gold plating". Gold has its place, but when not used wisely can diminish the overall interior.

4. I reccomend to always re-web the seat belts. Most time they need repaired and when re-webbed they will blend into the interior. It is also a good time to examine the buckles and mounting hardware for defects and scratches. Worn and abused buckles against the new interior soft goods will stand out like a sore thumb.

5. Make sure the door jambs are painted to match the interior and if the plane is to be painted at a later time, insist that the paint shop protect them when the aircraft is stripped.

6. Make sure that all the proper paperwork and log entries are in order and apply to your aircraft's operating regulations.

A new aircraft interior can range from bare bones to full on luxury and prices will vary accordingly. Although price and quality don't always mirror one another, it should be noted that the old adage "you get what you pay for" certainly applies when it comes to an aircraft interior that is hand crafted. Aviation quality materials are generally going to cost the same for all interior shops, so a cut rate price means lower quality or even uncertified materials. A well designed, assembled and installed interior requires many hours of hands-on work to complete the job so it will stand the test of time. Top shops don't cut corners and often times will perform additional work that you may never be charged for. Quality work can be seen not only when the interior is new, but also when it has been in service for many years and still looks and performs well. To get this level of quality, it is... all in the details.

The question of paint scheme design is one that we face on nearly every airplane we paint. From color choices to factory/non-factory, there is a great range of questions that must be answered when painting your aircraft.

The first question that must be answered concerns selling your plane at a later date. The typical train of thought is to stay conservative and not go too far with the scheme. A safe bet is to go with a factory scheme for your aircraft. It does not need to be the scheme for your year model, and typically we see schemes from the newer aircraft applied. However, on most vintage aircraft the scheme for the year model the plane was produced is best . One concern with using factory schemes is cross brand identification. I generally advise against using, let's say, a Beech scheme on a Cessna. There is a brand recognition associated with factory schemes that could turn off a potential buyer when the scheme is on an aircraft that was not a factory option. From a color standpoint, conservative, again, is the rule. Remember that a paint job should last eight to ten years, and what may be today's hot colors may not be tomorrow's! Matching the paint colors to the interior is always a good idea, unless, you are planning an interior upgrade in the near future.

When applying a non-factory type scheme, the options become vast. The first thing to remember is to listen to your designer, but don't let their personal style be the driving influence. The scheme is something you will have to live with for a very long time, so in the end it is all about you. When I work through a design with a customer, my first recommendation is to go "paint scheme shopping". Find designs you like and print them out. This will give the designer a feel for your vision of the paint scheme. A good designer will take your ideas, adapt them to your plane and come out with a design that will be perfect for you.

Times change and so should the thinking process when designing your paint scheme. Old school theory is basic white, minimal stripes and colors everyone will like. "Don't use red, it fades", "Don't use metallics, they oxidize", "Only use white because other colors will be too hot", "Don't clear coat, it will peel". These are age old theories base upon decades old technology. The UV protection built into all paint types, including aircraft paints, not only slows sun fading but also has virtually eliminated the clear coat peeling problems of the past. Even the factories are moving more toward base coat/clear coat paint systems for their durability as well as reparability. Metallic paints have largely done away with using real metal flakes in metallic paint colors. The aluminum flake previously used did oxidize over time, however, most paint manufacturers have moved to mylar flake, pearls and micas as a replacement. Not only do these components add to the paint life, they also open up a new array of colors and effects not previously available in the aircraft market. And as for the white only base color issue, I recently read an internet article about the temperature difference between various colors. The article came to the conclusion that interior heat was more a function of heat transmission through the windows than of the paint color. It found that the temperature of the interior was only raised about 6 degrees between white and black. Obviously dark paint colors will have an effect on fuel expansion in tanks, so if a dark base color is used this should be a consideration. The bottom line on paint colors is use what you like, use high quality materials and have fun!

Lastly. Don't listen to your mechanic. This one's gonna get me in trouble with some folks, but here it goes anyway. The purely mechanical reason for paint on a plane is corrosion control, but let's face it, it goes far beyond that. The application of an Alodine treatment and corrosion inhibiting primers will take care of the corrosion control function. It is not about making it easy on your mechanic to work on your plane. Anyone working on it should be careful not to damage that pearl white base color you had applied. Painting a plane is about making it yours. It is about bringing a sense of personal identity to an aircraft that thousands of the same kind may own. Explore the possibilities, get creative and more than anything have fun and make your plane a conversation piece for everyone at you airport to envy.